Thessaloniki

A lesser-known Greek destination. March 18, 2024.

So you want to get out of Northern Europe for a bit to escape the cold? Thessaloniki ticks a lot of boxes.

History, check! Sea views, Check! Delicious Food, check!

A perfect weekend trip to Thessaloniki would include a visit to a few of the many Byzantine era churches, dining on delicious gyros platters, and exploring ancient sites including the Roman forum, where the Apostle Paul preached the Gospels and Mount Olympus, home of Zeus and other gods.

A bit of history…

Thessaloniki is a crossroads. It’s the namesake of the New Testament book Thessalonians, and it is one of the locales the Apostle Paul visited while spreading the Gospel, but it’s history goes much further back than the First Century A.D. Indeed, this city is also near the birthplace of Alexander the Great and proudly boasts this Macedonian heritage. On a clear day, one can also see Mount Olympus across the bay. At the foothills of the mountain lie the ancient ruins of a village called Dion, where veneration of Zeus and the other Olympic gods dates back to at least the 5th century B.C. This is a wonderful site to include on your visit, certainly don’t skip the mythical Mount Olympus! Tours: https://www.viator.com/

You should learn about the Byzantine Empire before your visit. It will add context and meaning for your adventure to eastern Greece. Western travelers were probably misinformed in University that Rome fell around 400 A.D. This isn’t really true, it simply moved. Emperor Constantine moved the capital from Rome to Constantinople (Now known as Istanbul) in a move to consolidate power. He also is credited with officially converting Europe to Christianity. As the Catholic Pope claimed more and more supremacy in religious matters, the split between the eastern (Greek speaking) and western(Latin Speaking) church grew and grew, and so did the societies. Eventually, the Great Schism (Wikipedia), lead to a formal break in relations. The Byzantine empire suffered a death-blow in 1453 as the Turkish Sultan, Mehmet the Conqueror lambasted the city with the largest cannon ever constructed until that point in history. Thessaloniki was considered the second capital of Byzantium, and was thus a place of retreat for Europeans fleeing the Turkish conquerors. Thus, Thessaloniki is filled with Byzantine(a.k.a. Greek Orthodox) architecture including churches, hammams, and ruins. Eventually, Thessaloniki was also conquered and made part of the Ottoman empire, finally gaining independence as part of the modern Greek nation on October 26, 1912 when the Greek army liberated the city. Macednoian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman cultures all collide in this seaside escape.

The Enipeas Gorge, Mount Olympus

Churches

If you want to learn more, you can visit the Byzantine and Archaeological museums, conveniently located next to each other and entrance in 2024 is only 4 euros! These museums are a convenient and short walk from the Rotunda, the central landmark of the city’s skyline. Another great way to take in the city’s culture and history is to visit the many churches. These orthodox churches are also great places to pick up a small souvenir, as many of them sell small crucifix jewelry, Icons, and other wares that support the faith. When visiting churches, please always be mindful of those who may be actively worshiping. If you are there on a Sunday, the churches will be fairly crowded with members, but it is also a great chance to see the beautiful orthodox style of worship. Men should be sure to remove any hats when entering the church out of respect. Everyone should also be mindful of taking photos in a discreet manner.

Food!
Thessloniki is firmly Greek, but is also home to Armenian and Turkish communities, being quite close to Istanbul. The food is absolutely amazing here, as it is all over the Mediterranean. Gyros (grilled pork served Tzatziki. “Saaat-zeekey”), Souvlaki (Grilled, herbaceous pork or chicken served in a beautiful fresh pita), and fresh seafood are all on offer on just about every street in the city. By the way, the Tzatziki, is maybe the greatest sauce ever invented. It’s made with cucumber, garlic, fresh herbs, and creamy yogurt. Vegetarians can take delight in the many cheeses, salads, and flatbreads typical of Greek cuisine. (Note to all, If you see “Fried Feta with Honey” on a menu, try it!). Breakfast involved many nice pastries, the most classic choice being bougatsa. a buttery Filo dough pastry filled with milk cream and usually served with a bit of cinnamon. Sometimes you can find bougatsa with savory fillings like graviera cheese as well. I recommend picking some up here: Bougatsa Bantis. a bit of a hike but the friendly staff will make you feel welcome! Greeks are big on strong coffee too. If you go for a “Greek Coffee” you will be in for a bit of a caffeine burst, the coffee grinds are left right in the cup, fair warning. And Finally, you must try a city institution, the famous Trigona at Trigona Elenidi. (Grab a coffee next door before you get in line!). This is another honey-soaked, cream pastry made of delightfully crisp filo dough.

Tips

-The scammers are everywhere these days, you’ll want to be a bit careful around the Rotunda and waterfront walkway.

-Summers are brutal in Thessaloniki, make sure your accommodation will have air conditioning, or opt for an off-season getaway in the early spring.

-Whenever you travel you should pack light, leaving plenty of space for the souvenirs you wish to bring back. This cute shop is a great place to pick up some sundry and delicacies (Olicatessen). They have beautifully scented soaps and teas, as well as many other Greek treats.

-The Thessaloniki airport has a wonderful shopping center after you get through security where you can grab seasonings, ouzo, cheese, and other treats to take with you so you can eat like a local even after you leave.

-Thessaloniki’s architecture is a bit rough around the edges, but that doesn’t stop the joyful locals from brightening your day. Keep an open mind!



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